Tuesday, February 26, 2008

I Heart Dakar

Senegal was amazing. I couldn't get over how developed it is; Dakar is like a little new york city.





Our team did pretty well at the softball tournament, but our biggest success was our uniforms: dogon hats and bogolan shirts - very Malian.





Between games, I got in a lot of good beach time, too.





Ah, the beach...




I also got to explore Dakar a little, and went to the African Art Museum (IFAN), whice is supposed to be the best in West Africa. But if this is the best, I'd hate to see the worst. I was mostly disapointed by the 'modern' art section (although happy that they even HAD a modern art section).





The rest of the museum was mostly displays of masks and costumes used in ceremonies.



One display in particular was especially interesting. ...When I first got to Segou, and was furnishing my house, I bought a blanket at the market that was really neat looking - black and white checkers and really soft. It's been on my bed ever since and was great during the cold season. However, I learned at the museum that it is, in fact, the burial blanked used in traditional ceremonies. Oops.





The way back from Dakar was possibly the hardest journey I've ever made. Not because it was tough to leave behind the beach and all the good food, but because transportation is TERRIBLE. On the way there, I was reading a book on international development, emphasizing the importance of developing the infrastructure for landlocked countries to have access to shipping ports. Ironically, the road was so bad that I could barely focus on the words on the page.



On the way home, I had planned to take the train all the way to Bamako, and was really excited about the idea of seeing the country side in such a romantic way, but it derailed on it's way into Senegal and was out of service. So I was stuck on a hot bus for 4 days that kept breaking down, was stuck on the side of the road several times for many hours, and generally sucked.

I did get to at least SEE the train station, though, and got to go inside one of the old cars. Maybe next year...




But I got back to Segou in one piece, and decided to extend my vacation by a few days and go see the village across the river where they fire all the pottery that's sold in the market here. We took an hour long boat ride, and got there just in time to see them lighting the fires. Rather than baking the pots in a kiln, they stack them on the ground, cover them with sticks and grasses, and light the whole pile on fire.









4 comments:

K8 said...

Hello from Peace Corps Togo! I'll be passing thru Mali on my way to Dakar in April. I was hoping you have some good advice for me...how/when to travel, what kinda docs I'll need, etc. If you get a chance email me and let me know what there is to know! Thanks!

PCV Kate Ensley
k8intogo@hotmail.com
www.k8intogo.blogspot.com

p.s. I like your blog!

Rosemary B. Althoff said...

Today I obfusticated English students with an obtuse discussion of evaluating other people's evidence. Good intentions - but totally boring result. Sigh.

I have been sick with a horrible cold. Fortunately, it started with a sinus infection, and I went to the doc, so it didn't have time to grow tentacles or horns. Hopefully, you have totally avoided various plagues. I can imagine the nasty bus ride from Senegal to Mali - and the pit stops. Go outside and squat?

Rosemary B. Althoff said...

I bought two postcards to send you, but I left them in Florida. One is a typical Florida seacoast, which looks probably similar to a Senegal seacoast. The other is the Space Shuttle! I do not know if the space shuttle would seem relevant to your Malian neighbors, however. I'll try to get photographs of us to show in your village (if you like).

Unknown said...

Mary,

I just caught up with your blog, and it was good.
It made me laugh, and the pictures of you showed you happy and healthy.
Thank you for keeping up with the blog.
It is a treasure.

I am in Taiwan for the next week and a half.
Last week I was in Japan, and the week before here in Taiwan again.
This is quite a long Asia trip for me!
Lisa got to join me for a week in Japan, and a few days in Taipei.
It was her first time to Asia, and she was blown away (in a good sense).
We got to see the cherry blossoms blooming in Tokyo, Lisa got to tour Kyoto while I was in a meeting, and we went to Nikko.
Nikko is north of Tokyo, about 2 hours train ride.
While Tokyo is concrete everywhere, Nikko is straight out of the Ewok Village in Return of the Jedi.
The trees are massive and tall, and there are mountains and waterfalls and ancient temples everywhere.
It was very cool. We took lots of pictures.
(When I develop the film I will scan the best ones and share them.)
I also introduced Lisa to Japanese food.
We ate sushi (of course) and my business associates treated us to blow fish!
Lisa also had Yukke-sashi, which is raw beef sashimi with raw egg yolk, wrapped in a lettuce leaf.
There was also plenty of beer and saki (hot and cold), and some ice cream too.

On our last day in Taipei we went into the forest and mountains north of the city.
There we also saw amazing waterfalls and ate the Taiwan version of a corn dog. (not so bad)
We took a crazy bus ride to the start of this mountain path... actually a dormant volcano!
Its name is Mt. Cisingshan or Seven Star Moutain, and is the highest peak in Taipei (but not Taiwan).
The side of the mountain was blown off many years ago, and now hot sulfur gas continuously pours out of this massive crater.
It was quite the sight, and a good hike!
(This was Lisa's and my fist mountain.)
Steps are carved out of stone the whole way up, and it varies from relaxed to super steep.
Oh, and we also happened upon a calla-lily festival.
Lots of people driving around on scooters, defying death on mountain roads, carrying bouquets of calla-lilies.
That's another thing... I've had this wonderful illusion that although the scooter-riders in Taiwan are crazy, they never seem to get into accidents.
Sadly, that illusion was shattered this weekend when we saw 2 scooter accidents!
Thankfully nobody was killed, but it didn't look like fun.
I guess in Taiwan they don't call the police unless it is a last resort.
People just argue-it-out as to who is at fault, money changes hands, and that's it! Crazy!

So I read that you are going to build a school house for your village?
That seems like quite the legacy that you will leave.
You mentioned that you are looking for engineers... what would you have them do?
Also, you wrote of the chickens being problems for the gardens.
I have read that you should place good sized rocks over the root zones of plants to prevent their scratching up the roots/bulbs.
Also, if you have a coop... the internet recommends letting them out later in the afternoon rather than in the morning.
(Less time to destroy before they roost for the night.)
Do you remember the chickens in the Philippines?

Stay happy, stay healthy.
I loved the picture of your softball uniforms.
Miss you!

-Pete